Tongariro National Park on the North Island is a place far removed from the lush rainforests of the South Island, yet this volcanic wonderland is among New Zealand’s most striking landscapes. Established in 1887 as the first national park in the country and only the fourth in the world, the three mighty volcanoes Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu are big, readily accessible, and active. In fact, the famed trail of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing allows you to walk amidst the lava fields, turquoise volcanic lakes, and even up the cones themselves.

The Tongariro Crossing, the most popular excursion in the park, is a strenuous 19-kilometer day hike over the ridge between Mt. Tongariro and the perfectly shaped Mt. Ngauruhoe. Crowds are to be expected but the Crossing is worth it—views are spectacular throughout and the volcanic experience is tough to rival. The windy high point of the trail perched between the two peaks offers wide-ranging vistas of the surrounding UNESCO World Heritage area (it enjoys dual status both for its natural and cultural importance to the Maori people). In a way, this ridge feels like the center of New Zealand.

Craggy Mt. Ruapehu appears to be the ugly brother of Mt. Ngauruhoe but one could argue that the real majesty of the park lies with the former. Mt. Ruapehu is the largest active volcano in New Zealand and the highest point on the North Island. The closer one gets to the mountain the clearer it becomes that this volcano is much more complex and functions as a world onto itself. Deep valleys and plateaus adorn its many faces, and the range of ecosystems includes mountain beech forest, desert, tussock, and glacial river valleys.

For those interested in overnight hiking trips in Tongariro National Park, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. However, the most scenic section of the trek is the Tongariro Crossing itself, which easily is completed as a day hike. Do the Crossing, but the best multi-day option in the park and one of New Zealand’s great hidden gems is the Round the Mountain Track circumventing neighboring Mt. Ruapehu.

It seems counterintuitive to walk in a circle for 4–5 days around a single mountain, but what emerges is a deeper understanding of the volcanoes that make the region famous. You will see Mt. Ruapehu from all angles, through numerous sunrises and sunsets, and walk every footstep of its base. Some sections of the trail meander away from the volcano while others cut high across its flanks. The brief journey through the lahar—or debris flow—is not for the faint of heart but gets as up close with the geological activity as one can get. Remember to move quickly.

At the end of the journey and at the foot of Mt. Ruapehu is the luxuriant Chateau Tongariro, styled after the Canadian Resort of Lake Louise. It doesn’t feel like a hotel of Georgian nature should be situated within the ruggedness of the national park, but there is something timeless about the structure that evokes an era when access was far more limited. A small handful of places around the world attracted the high-fliers to experience exotic and wild country and return home to tell their friends, and the Chateau Tongariro was near the top of the list. You don’t have to stay at the hotel, but it’s hard to top the plush couches and dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows in the lobby that stare directly at the faces of the famous volcanoes. Certainly there are worse places to enjoy a well-earned beer after a few days in the backcountry.
 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Passing high between the volcanoes Tongariro and Ngauruhoe, the Tongariro Crossing is often called New Zealand's best day hike.
Length: 19.4 km
Time: 5–8 hours
Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging
 

Tongariro Northern Circuit 

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and includes the famed Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Length: 50 km 
Time: 3–4 days
Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging
 

Round the Mountain Track

This off the beaten path hike around Mt. Ruapehu is one of New Zealand’s best, traversing a multitude of volcanic landscapes.
Length: 66 km
Time: 4–6 days
Difficulty: Challenging