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For those seeking Maui off the beaten path, the former sugar plantation town of Paia (pronounced pie-EE-ah) offers a taste of Maui as it used to be. Situated on the north shore about 15 minutes east of Kahului Airport, Paia is sandwiched by Ho‘okipa Beach Park, the world's premier windsurfing destination, and Jaws, the famed big wave break. A number of galleries and shops have emerged in recent years—surely due to Paia’s location at the start of the Road to Hana—but local flavor still resonates with surf shops and eateries packed full of Maui residents.
One of Paia’s great upsides is Maui’s most endearing and reasonably priced restaurants. The leader is the Paia Fish Market, serving Ono, Mahi Mahi, and Ahi in just about every form imaginable. Ono, which means “delicious” in Hawaiian, is a prize of the surrounding waters, esteemed for their white, delicate flesh. These fish can swim up to 50 mph and hit lures and bait with lightning fast strikes, making them a favorite amongst fisherman and restaurant-goers alike.
Across the street from the Paia Fish Market is Flatbread organic pizza, the best pie on the Island. Many of the ingredients come from Maui farms, with mouth-watering pizza offerings like Kalua pork shoulder with organic mango barbeque sauce and chevre from the nearby Surfing Goat Dairy. For upscale dining, Mama’s Fish House just outside Paia has prime views and fish so tasty that it’s tough to get a reservation any day of the week. Mama’s even prints on the menu the local fishermen responsible for your catch.
Essentially a one street town, Paia is short on accommodations. The boutique Paia Inn is hip, highly regarded, and a good value for Maui (starting at $189 per night). One other intriguing option near Paia are located 13 miles east on the Hana Highway in a patch of old farms called Heulo. Huelo means rooster, which is just about the only company to be kept there. Turn left at the phone booth (there’s no sign), and the dirt road continues literally until the cliff’s edge, perched 300 feet above the booming Pacific without room to spare. Not far is Jaws, whose waves lay dormant (“Jaws is sleeping”) most of the year but surge during the biggest winter swells.
Huelo feels isolated, except for the sun and all-encompassing ocean spreads. You won't find true luxury here, but across the dirt road is a rental property, the Huelo Point Lookout, which is highly popular with guests. The drive to and from Huelo isn’t optimal—it’s about 25 minutes to Paia—but few places in Hawaii rival the privacy, peacefulness, or views. From December through April, Huelo is prime for spotting humpback whales.
Those who stay in or near Paia return year after year. The cliffs rising up east of town make white sand beaches less accessible than in Wailea, Kihei, and Ka’anaplai, but nearby Ho‘okipa Beach Park is still one of the best on the island. Paia is about a less touristy pace than the rest of the island, a spirited local vibe, and of course, terrific fish tacos.
Accommodations in Paia
Paia Inn (Downtown Paia)
With rooms starting at $189, this boutique hotel is a perfect alternative to the larger resorts on the island. The Inn is a 2-minute walk to the beach with a terrific staff and no shortage of amenities. Rooms range from petite with a town view to a luxurious beachfront house.
Accommodations Outside Paia
Huelo Point Lookout (Huelo)
The Lookout is comprised of four different rental accommodations scattered amongst green pastures and fruit orchards overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
