Bouldering is having its moment. Climbing’s simplest discipline is experiencing a rush of new enthusiasts, in large part due to how accessible it is. All you need is a pair of shoes and a chalk bag—until the lure of real rock brings you outside, that is. For outdoor bouldering, a crash pad (or multiple pads) is vital to climbing safely. And there are more options now than ever before, from stylish custom pieces to popular designs from heavy hitters like Metolius and Black Diamond. Below are the best crash pads of 2020, from supplemental to oversized and every size in between. For more background information, see our comparison table and buying advice after the picks.
Best Overall Crash Pad
Open dimensions: 46 x 58 in.
Thickness: 4 in. (5 in. available)
What we like: Nothing beats Organic foam.
What we don’t: Heavy and poor traction on uneven surfaces.
Organic Climbing’s Big Four gets our top spot for 2020, boasting what is widely accepted as the best foam in the game. What sets it apart is the three-layer design consisting of memory foam, closed-cell foam, and open-cell foam, which strikes an impressive balance of cushioning and longevity. In particular, we think the memory foam topper is a brilliant material—it compresses well while still holding its loft and does not wear out as quickly as the open-cell foam that you find on most competitors. And Organic makes each of their pads to order, so you can personalize your Big Four with unique colors (and even request certain patterns or shapes). Further, the same pad is available in a 5-inch thickness, aptly named—you guessed it—the Big Five Pad.
What are the shortcomings of the Big Four? Some find Organic foam to be on the stiffer side, and a break-in period certainly is required before it really feels cushioned. Furthermore, the Big Four is heavy and simpler than most crash pads—those who prefer extra pockets or organizational features won’t find them here. Lastly, on uneven landing surfaces the traction of the Organic is poor. Used on the same terrain, our Black Diamond Mondo stayed put under impact while the Big Four noticeably slid around. But it nails the most important part of the equation: foam quality. And as a bonus, the company sells replacement foam so you can minimize waste and reuse your beloved pad cover.
See the Organic Climbing Big Four
Best Budget Crash Pad
Open dimensions: 36 x 48 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: A quality crash pad for a low cost; built-in carpet for cleaning shoes.
What we don’t: Foam is softer than most and the fabric isn’t particularly durable.
The Metolius Session has long been one of our favorite crash pads, and this year it’s being sold as the “Party Pit” through a collaboration with outdoor gear retailer Backcountry. Despite being one of the most affordable pads on our list, the Party Pit doesn’t hold back in terms of design. We especially like the angled fold with Velcro reinforcement—unique to Metolius pads—that has all the benefits of a hinge design but diminishes the possibility of hitting the “gutter” during a fall, even on uneven terrain. Webbing handles make the pad easier to drag when unfolded, and the bottom and side flaps secure easily with just one buckle and reverse to protect the shoulder straps while bouldering. And like all Metolius pads, the Party Pit has a handy carpet patch to clean your shoes off before climbing.
Keep in mind that Metolius’ foam definitely is softer than most, making this pad best suited for small falls. You’ll risk bottoming out if you fall from high, but its small 36 x 48-inch footprint is meant for shorter problems anyways. Furthermore, the Party Pit isn’t a standout in durability with a 900-denier shell fabric. But for $170 (including free shipping through Backcountry), you just can’t beat the value—it’s ideal for a range of boulderers from those testing the waters of the sport to seasoned veterans looking to supplement their oversized rig. And because it’s so lightweight and quick to pack up, the Party Pit is an ideal pad for circuiting too.
See the Backcountry x Metolius Party Pit
Best Oversized Crash Pad
Open dimensions: 44 x 65 in.
Thickness: 5 in.
What we like: Confidence-inspiring size; stays put on uneven terrain.
What we don’t: Non-adjustable suspension; not super durable.
Black Diamond’s Mondo is an undisputed favorite and for good reason: almost 20 square feet of 5-inch foam makes this an incredibly confidence-inspiring pad to have below you. And in its most recent iteration, the Mondo features squared-off corners so you can combine pads to create a landing surface with no gaps. The Mondo stays put on uneven ground noticeably better than our top pick, the Organic Big Four—the bottom is coated with rubber for better grip, and the base layer of open-cell foam conforms well to the ground. It’s simple too—something we love in a pad—with easy-to-clip, durable buckles and few added frills.
What are the pitfalls of the Black Diamond Mondo? First, the large size means it’s not for everyone and may not even fit in your vehicle. And considering its 20-pound heft, the Mondo can be a bear to carry for long distances—it helps that shoulder straps and hipbelt are both adjustable, but we wish there were a sternum strap for added support. Last but not least, durability is a concern. The cushy, open-cell foam on the bottom will wear away faster than closed-cell foam, and reports of fabric ripping at strap attachment points give us pause. But for many, these drawbacks are worth the solid confidence boost of the large and burly Mondo.
See the Black Diamond Mondo
Most Durable Crash Pad
Open dimensions: 38 x 50 in.
Thickness: 5 in.
What we like: Flashed Air Technology is durable and just works.
What we don’t: Not as widely available as pads from U.S.-based companies.
The Flashed Ronin is unlike any other crash pad on the market. Their innovative Flashed Air Technology (FAT), which amounts to a series of cells that “self-inflate” around a small central foam core, provides a soft yet substantial landing zone. Hit it hard and it stiffens, hit it lightly and you’ll get a cushioned catch. Either way, you won’t bounce like you might on a standard crash pad. Flashed claims that this technology lasts three times longer than open-cell foam, and we believe it. We tested a well-loved five-year-old pad with FAT and it was as beefy and cushioned as our new pads.
Flashed predicts that their technology will “change bouldering as we know it,” but we have yet to see it truly alter the market. It’s hard to say why—the pad is durable, has been diligently tested, and can even be compressed to meet standard baggage measurements for air travel. It could be that Flashed is a bit off-the-radar being based in Canada (although they offer free shipping to the U.S. on orders over $50 at the time of publishing). And the Ronin is slightly expensive for a full pad and heavy for its size. It might be an outlier, but we have yet to meet anyone who doesn’t love their Flashed pad. And as a bonus, Flashed is now offering bespoke (that’s Canadian for “custom”) pads featuring art prints for only $25 more.
See the Flashed Ronin Pad
Great Carrying Comfort and Capability
Open dimensions: 42 x 56 in.
Thickness: 5 in.
What we like: Flap design allows you to carry two pads securely.
What we don’t: Excessive straps and fabric get in the way once unpacked.
Carrying two crash pads can be cumbersome, and sometimes the setup is so insecure that you drop one halfway through the approach. But with a simple flap that extends over a second pad of any size, the Mad Rock Duo makes carrying multiple pads a non-issue. It’s a small feature, but enough to make the Mad Rock one of our favorites. It doesn’t hurt that the Duo is well-cushioned with a beefy and adjustable suspension and weather-resistant fabric. And like most Mad Rock designs, it’s a thick 5 inches and has Velcro strips to connect to other pads for continuous flooring.
The Duo’s strong suit also creates one of its downsides. Once unpacked, a mess of straps and flaps hang off the pad. In addition, the padding is cushier than the Organic Big Four or Black Diamond Mondo above, with a tendency to grow softer over time. And finally, the nylon face fabric is much less durable than the competition, and the Duo is heavy for a full pad (although its beefy suspension is what makes for comfortable carrying). But we love the generous 5-inch dose of foam, and if you’re routinely toting multiple pads to boulder fields, the Duo is a top performer. Another option in this category is Organic’s Backfourty—made in collaboration with Mystery Ranch Backpacks—but it’s very pricey at $399.
See the Mad Rock Duo
A Supplemental Pad to Complete Your Kit
Open dimensions: 44 x 74 in.
Thickness: 0.75 in.
What we like: Extremely versatile supplemental pad.
What we don’t: Not always necessary for small boulders or flat landings.
The Asana Pro Spotter is a supplemental pad that packs an impressive number of functions into a compact size. At 3 inches thick when folded up—effectively the size of the unpacked Organic Briefcase pad below—it makes a great sit start pad or can give your full pad a boost by sliding it underneath. Unfold it and you get just over 22 square feet of 3/4-inch closed-cell foam to pile on top of your other pads and cover gaps, folds, and irregularities. To top it off, the Pro Spotter is long and wide enough to be used as a camping sleeping pad.
If you find yourself requiring multiple pads or boulder in areas with uneven landings, the Asana Pro Spotter is worth considering. Sure, it can’t replace a full-size second pad in terms of protection, but a supplemental pad like the Pro Spotter will add versatility to any boulderer’s quiver. And keep in mind that Asana makes a $25 case to go along with the Pro Spotter, which adds carrying convenience and the ability to turn it into a spotting shield to guide a falling climber.
See the Asana Pro Spotter Pad
Best of the Rest
Open dimensions: 36 x 48 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: A durable pad at a budget price; waterproof flap protects harness when in use.
What we don’t: Small size means you’ll likely want a second pad.
KinetiK’s Newton is the tank of crash pads, with utility and durability emphasized above all else. The exterior is made of heavy-duty 1680-denier nylon—tying with the Mad Rock R3 for the most durable shell fabric on our list. Further, the flap cover uses an extremely strong vinyl and flips around to cover the harness when unpacked, creating a sleek, waterproof base that protects against mud and moisture. And similar to other hybrid-hinge designs like the Mad Rock Duo and Black Diamond Mondo above, a 1-inch continuous layer of closed-cell foam covers the Newton’s hinge, eliminating the gutter and dispersing the force of a fall.
In the Newton’s most recent update, KinetiK eliminated the industrial-grade Velcro flap (our main gripe with the 3.0) and replaced the closure with easier-to-use buckles instead. Significantly, this new flap closure also allows you to carry a second pad with no additional straps. Further, unlike many popular pads, the Newton’s suspension system is fully adjustable, allowing impressive carrying comfort for a variety of body sizes. Given the small dimensions of the KinetiK, we think its use is a bit limited to lowball problems or those wanting to add a second pad to their quiver. But for only $190, the Newton 4.0 is a nice investment that, unlike the Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit above or Mad Pad below, should stand the test of time.
See the KinetiK Newton 4.0 Pad
Open dimensions: 36 x 48 in.
Thickness: 3.8 in.
What we like: Innovative plastic sheet distributes impacts and makes for more stable carrying.
What we don’t: Expensive, including an extra $49 for shipping.
Based outside of legendary bouldering area Hueco Tanks in El Paso, Texas, Send Climbing is best known for their kneebar pads, but their lineup of fully customizable crash pads is well worth a look. The most standout feature is Send’s proprietary DistribuFrame, which sandwiches a plastic framesheet between closed-cell foam on the top and open-cell foam below. This distributes the impact of a fall, keeping the climber from bottoming out and simultaneously extending the life of the foam (it also provides an anchor for the pad’s suspension, making it easier and more stable to carry).
The 3x4 Pro is Send’s regular-sized offering, and it comes with all the bells and whistles you’d expect in a premium pad. For starters, you get heavy-duty, 1,000-denier fabric and a hybrid fold that eliminates the gutter, along with a padded flap that doubles as a starter mat (including a patch of carpet) and handles made of reclaimed climbing rope. We also like Send’s easy-to-use Add-a-Pad system, which uses Velcro patches to secure a 2’x3’ pad (purchased separately) to the 3x4 Pro. You do pay a premium at $279, but the 3x4 is a truly innovative and top-shelf option that will last for many seasons.
See the Send Climbing 3x4 Pro
Open dimensions: 36 x 48 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: An affordable option from the top pad maker in the game.
What we don’t: Not as feature-rich as the KinetiK Newton above.
Organic’s Big Four above is an unbeatable option for those wanting maximum ground protection, but most boulderers will find everything they need in the Simple Pad. This pad is a steal at $179, considering you still get Organic’s high-quality foam and all the design aspects that make their Big Four above our top pick. The Simple features an identical 1050-denier ballistic nylon shell and 1000-denier Cordura landing zone, in addition to the same metal buckle closures, hybrid hinge, and robust suspension system. With minimal bells and whistles, the Simple is made to last—and so is Organic’s foam.
The Simple Pad goes head-to-head with the KinetiK Newton 4.0 across almost all categories. Both pads are the same size and thickness and feature a hybrid hinge to protect you from hitting the gutter. But while we prefer Organic’s foam and think it’s the best on the market, we give the slight edge to the Newton for its beefy fabrics and suspension, extra pad-carrying capacity (you can add the Load Flap onto the Simple for an extra $33), and waterproof base that protects the straps from mud and dirt. But for only $179, you really can’t go wrong with the Simple. And as always, Organic allows you to customize your pad with your choice of background and accent colors.
See the Organic Simple Pad
Open dimensions: 41 x 58 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: Simple and functional.
What we don’t: Suspension system is not adjustable.
Asana pads are the old standbys of the bouldering world. Nothing on the SuperHero is advanced: Asana still uses cumbersome cam straps for the closure system, a simple hinge fold, and standard sandwiched foam. But with 1000D ballistic nylon, sturdy buckles, and padded shoulder straps, the SuperHero gets the job done. Further, a flap closure allows you to securely carry gear or attach another pad without too many shenanigans. All in all, Asana is one of the only brands out there truly dedicated to bouldering, and their expertise shines through.
The SuperHero covers the basics so well it leaves us with little to complain about. Sure, the foam isn’t as revolutionary as Organic’s, and yes, the flap closure is neither as convenient as the Mondo’s simple buckles nor as secure as the Petzl Alto’s (below) zipper closure. The price tag is pretty middle-of-the-road as well, yet it’s competitive at under $300. But the updated pad comes with a well-built suspension system with a great range of adjustment for easier carrying, and the new designs are quirky and fun (our favorite is the “Clones” graphic in the photo above). For boulderers who appreciate a simple, eye-catching pad that will stand the test of time, the Asana shouldn’t disappoint.
See the Asana SuperHero
Open dimensions: 41 x 48 in.
Thickness: 3.5 in.
What we like: Lightweight; can drape over boulders and wrap around trees.
What we don’t: Not a great standalone pad.
The Drop Zone fills a gap in most pad collections, providing a lightweight, hinge-less addition to standard ground protection. At only 9.5 pounds, it makes toting a second pad a bit less arduous and is a great option if you're with kids who want to help with the carrying process. Further, the elastic mesh flap can secure a lot of gear inside the cavernous taco fold. And like its big brother, the Mondo above, the Drop Zone has a rubber-coated bottom for solid grip on uneven terrain and a polyurethane-coated top for durability and weather protection.
The Drop Zone got a similar upgrade as the Mondo last year, with improved buckles, a padded suspension, and square corners for better multi-pad coverage. But with the same taco-style fold, you do give up a bit of convenience. It does not lay flat when first opened, and you’ll want to store it open so as not to damage the foam. And at only 3.5 inches thick, we wouldn’t recommend the Drop Zone as a standalone pad unless you’re staying low to the ground. Finally, less foam to absorb each fall means it’s bound to wear out quicker than most. But as a top layer to cover gaps and a hinge-less option that you can drape over sharp rocks or wrap around trees, the Drop Zone is a nice addition to any boulderer’s quiver.
See the Black Diamond Drop Zone
Open dimensions: 39 x 49 in.
Thickness: 3.9 in.
What we like: Feature-rich and carries gear easily.
What we don’t: Overbuilt for a crash pad.
True to form, Petzl designed an innovative crash pad with the utmost attention to detail. The Alto answers just about every gripe boulderers have about their pads: “my gear falls out the bottom,” “the hinge creates a weak spot,” “the shoulder straps catch when I’m trying to drag my pad.” Not so on the Alto. The unique zipper design allows you to securely carry your gear and compresses the taco fold better than most. Once at the boulders, a flap zips around the suspension system to create a sleek, gutterless pad that can be flipped over and used on either side.
All that, and we’re still not convinced the Alto is a standout. In short, it’s too complicated. The pad is arduous to set up relative to other pads and can be difficult to drag. Plus, we worry about the durability of the zipper closure—we’ve seen a Cirro (the largest Petzl pad) with a broken zipper that rendered the pad nearly impossible to transport. What’s more, the Velcro suspension doesn’t adjust to fit various body sizes. The Alto certainly is well-made, but at nearly twice the cost of the Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit above, we have a hard time recommending it to all but the techiest of boulderers.
See the Petzl Alto Pad
Open dimensions: 37 x 50 in.
Thickness: 5 in.
What we like: Thicker and slightly larger than the Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit.
What we don’t: Mad Rock foam is not super durable.
Similar to the Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit above, the Mad Rock Mad Pad is great for new boulderers or those looking for an affordable second pad. It has a slightly larger footprint than the Session and is made with Mad Rock’s standard 5-inch sandwiched foam (rather than the 4-inch thickness of the Metolius). And like all other Mad Rock pads, it features Velcro for continuous flooring and can be converted into a couch.
At well under $200, you get what you pay for with the Mad Pad. The shoulder straps aren’t adjustable and the fabric is the least durable of any pad here. As we mentioned with the Duo above, Mad Rock’s foam starts out nice and cushioned but unfortunately does not stand the test of time. With 5 inches of foam rather than 4, the Mad Pad could last you longer than Metolius’ entry-level offering, but that’s only if the face fabric doesn’t fail first. But for those who boulder infrequently or just want a simple design for a few years before making a larger investment, the Mad Pad is a good contender for best budget design.
See the Mad Rock Mad Pad
Open dimensions: 42 x 60 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: Small packed size and its angled hinges nearly eliminate gutters.
What we don’t: Does not carry gear well.
If space is at a premium in your life, a tri-fold design like the Metolius Recon makes a lot of sense. For a full pad, the Recon’s 22-inch folded width is impressive (compare that to the Asana SuperHero, which has a slightly smaller footprint but packs away to 29 inches in width). And with Velcro that effectively seals up the two angled hinge folds, the gutter problem is nearly eliminated as well. All told, the Recon’s accordion design is easy to pack and unpack, and the closure flaps invert to keep the suspension system clean while bouldering.
The Recon’s tri-fold design does come with a few compromises. For one, it does not pack gear well—you’ll barely be able to fit a pair of shoes and chalk bag within the folds. Second, the Velcro-sealed hinges make for a rigid surface with minimal grip that does not stick well to uneven ground (we usually prefer a taco design to cover complicated landings). That said, if you keep the hinges unsealed, on the right terrain the narrow panels conform to boulders where many standard pads (like the Mondo) would extend over air. For the same style in an oversized version, check out the Magnum, which measures 47 x 70 inches and packs down to a 25-inch width.
See the Metolius Recon Pad
Open dimensions: 44 x 72 in.
Thickness: 5 in.
What we like: Large surface area and a lot of foam for a low price.
What we don’t: Heavy and lacking in quality.
If you take a look at the specs of the Mad Rock Triple Mad Pad, you might wonder why it’s so low on our list. This pad has a spacious 44 x 72-inch landing area, packs down to a slim 22 x 44 inches, has 5 inches of foam, and is only $259. That’s a steal, and the Triple Mad Pad is long enough to serve double-duty as a mattress. What gives?
Mad Rock certainly leads the charge in affordable crash pads, but the bigger their pads get, the more their lack of quality becomes apparent. The Triple Mad Pad is a whopping 24 pounds (the heaviest of any on our list) and the durability of Mad Rock’s fabric does not increase to accommodate such a load. Furthermore, the heavy foam (the same as that of the Duo and Mad Pad) will grow soft with use. And like the Recon above, the tri-fold design does not allow you to carry much gear. If you’re looking to go big, we think it’s worth spending up to the higher-quality BD Mondo.
See the Mad Rock Triple Mad Pad
Open dimensions: 35 x 47 in.
Thickness: 3.5 in.
What we like: An affordable pad from a well-respected manufacturer.
What we don’t: Three inches of foam isn’t ideal for a standalone pad.
We’ll cut straight to the chase: Black Diamond’s new Circuit isn’t a very remarkable pad. It’s fairly small, only 3.5 inches thick, and not particularly durable. There’s nothing special about the foam, and it doesn’t have any of the noteworthy carry or organizational features of the pads above. But the Circuit is a standout in one critical area: price. For the entry-level boulderer or gym rat who’s thinking about making the transition to real rock, the Circuit is a respectable option from a trusted manufacturer that won’t break the bank.
However, we hesitate to recommend the Circuit for one main reason: 3.5 inches of foam simply isn’t enough padding for many falls. The Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit costs only $10 more and comes with 4 inches of foam and an angled hinge closure, which prevents a gutter from forming in the middle of the pad. And the Mad Rock Mad Pad ($175) has a whopping 5 inches of foam and a considerably larger footprint (although the Circuit gets the edge in quality). All that said, as a circuiting rig when you’re unlikely to fall from high off the deck or as a supplemental pad, the Circuit is a viable option.
See the Black Diamond Circuit
Open dimensions: 35 x 55 in.
Thickness: 4 in.
What we like: Durable and can conform to uneven surfaces.
What we don’t: Not a great standalone pad.
Mad Rock’s R3 is a specialty option that straddles the line between standalone and supplemental pads. Instead of the standard layered open- and closed-cell foam we’re used to, the R3 is constructed with seven separate baffles filled with shredded closed-cell foam—think Michelin Man or a down jacket. The benefit of this design is the R3’s ability to conform to uneven surfaces while still providing a cushioned landing zone. Layer it over a jagged boulder, over gaps in pads, or fold it to fill in underneath. And given its flexibility, the R3 also is able to expand to carry gear better than most other pads.
However, we hesitate to recommend the R3 as a standalone pad for anything but the shortest problems. The lack of a continuous layer of closed-cell foam means you’re more likely to bottom out, and the lumpy baffles make for an uneven landing surface even on flat terrain. In addition, while each seam between the baffling contains a small layer of foam, in essence there are six small gutters on the R3 rather than one large gutter. And at almost 20 pounds, it has a poor weight-to-size ratio (almost twice the weight of the similarly-sized Drop Zone). But, the heavy-duty 1680D polyester cover and replaceable foam mean the R3 will keep going long after your other Mad Rock pads have been retired.
See the Mad Rock R3 Pad
Open dimensions: 24 x 36 in.
Thickness: 3 in.
What we like: Small and lightweight but still serves a variety of uses.
What we don’t: Thin and small.
The Briefcase from Organic is a small and easy-to-transport crash pad option with a variety of uses. Throw it down as a supplemental pad for extra protection while circuiting, or place it at a start so your feet and clothing stay clean. Fold it to fill in gaps underneath other pads, or drape it over boulders in your landing zone. It’s small enough to fly with and slim enough to slide between the folds of most standard-sized pads.
With just 3 inches of foam and a small 24 x 36-inch surface area, we wouldn’t recommend the Briefcase to be used alone. Additionally, among supplemental pads, the Asana Pro Spotter above is more versatile. But many will appreciate the simplicity and continuous padding of the Briefcase. It might seem like a luxury piece at first, but we think a quality supplemental pad makes a good staple for every pebble wrestler.
See the Organic Briefcase Pad
|Organic Climbing Big Four||$299||Full||46 x 58 in.||4/5 in.||Hybrid||17 lbs.||1050D|
|$170||Regular||36 x 48 in.||4 in.||Angled||9 lbs.||900D|
|Black Diamond Mondo||$400||Oversized||44 x 65 in.||5 in.||Hinge||20 lb. 6 oz.||1000D|
|Flashed Ronin||$300||Full||38 x 50 in.||5 in.||Taco||16 lb. 8 oz.||1000D|
|Mad Rock Duo||$249||Full||42 x 56 in.||5 in.||Hinge||17 lbs.||650D|
|Asana Pro Spotter Pad||$95||Supplemental||44 x 74 in.||0.75 in.||Hinge||4 lbs.||Unavail.|
|KinetiK Newton 4.0||$190||Regular||36 x 48 in.||4 in.||Hybrid||13 lb. 3 oz.||1680D|
|Send Climbing 3x4 Pro||$279||Regular||36 x 48 in.||3.8 in.||Hybrid||12 lb. 10 oz.||1000D|
|Organic Climbing Simple||$179||Regular||36 x 48 in.||4 in.||Hybrid||11 lbs.||1050D|
|Asana SuperHero||$285||Full||41 x 58 in.||4 in.||Hinge||15 lbs.||1000D|
|Black Diamond Drop Zone||$250||Full||41 x 48 in.||3.5 in.||Taco||9 lb. 8 oz.||1000D|
|Petzl Alto||$300||Regular||39 x 47 in.||4 in.||Taco||12 lb. 9 oz.||Unavail.|
|Mad Rock Mad Pad||$179||Regular||37 x 50 in.||5 in.||Hinge||13 lb. 13 oz.||600D|
|Metolius Recon||$280||Full||42 x 60 in.||4 in.||Angled||14 lb. 5 oz.||900D|
|Mad Rock Triple Mad Pad||$279||Oversized||44 x 72 in.||5 in.||Hinge||24 lbs.||600D|
|Black Diamond Circuit||$150||Regular||35 x 47 in.||3.5 in.||Hinge||8 lb. 5 oz.||900D|
|Mad Rock R3||$199||Full||35 x 55 in.||4 in.||Baffles||17-20 lbs.||1680D|
|Organic Briefcase Pad||$99||Supplemental||24 x 36 in.||3 in.||Hinge||4 lbs.||1050D|
- Crash Pad Categories
- Foam Types
- Foam Layering
- Pad Thickness
- Fold Types: Hinge, Angled Hinge, Hybrid Hinge, Taco
- Closure Systems
- Portability: Suspension System and Carry Straps
- Crash Pads and Air Travel
- Buying a Crash Pad Online
Many factors contribute to the amount of protection a crash pad provides, with size being the most obvious. Simply put, the larger the footprint of a pad, the more ground it covers. For short problems or easy circuits where a fall is small or unlikely, many boulderers find one regular-sized pad to be sufficient. When it comes to highball bouldering, full and oversized pads (and often more than one of them) are favored above the rest. We’ve broken down crash pad size into four categories: supplemental, regular, full, and oversized. Keep in mind that most companies make pads in a handful of different sizes, so you’ll likely be able to size up or down with similar features and quality.
Regular pads are your standard, entry-level designs. They average roughly 36 x 48 inches (3 x 4 feet) when unfolded and come in the same thicknesses as oversized pads (4 to 5 inches). Those new to bouldering or on a budget will find this size to be perfectly sufficient for protecting most problems, and expert boulderers will take them along as a valuable second pad. When you have to carry two pads, regular pads are ideal for strapping onto the back of an oversized pad. Additionally, they are a great size for circuits or bouldering alone on non-committing or easy (for you) problems. For the purpose of specificity, our regular category includes pads up to 13 square feet in surface area.
If you’re looking to size up from the regular category above but don’t want something too massive, full pads provide a happy medium. We think of these as the standard, all-rounder designs of the bouldering world. Lay out a bunch of full pads under a problem and you’re bound to feel safe. Full pads often have more features than their regular counterparts (take the Mad Rock Duo’s carrying prowess, for example, or the innovative tri-fold Metolius Recon). If you’ve been bouldering for years on other people’s pads and feel it’s time to get your own, this is the size we’d point you to first. In this article, we’ve given the “full” designation to pads between roughly 13 and 20 square feet of surface area.
With names such as Mondo and Highball, oversized pads can’t hide the fact that they’re the giants of the crash pad world. If you’ll be high off the deck and relying on a pad to protect you, it’s best to err on the side of a very big pad. Regular and full pads—especially linked together (as with the Mad Rock pads) or covered with a supplemental pad—can do the trick, but there’s nothing as reassuring as seeing a 5-inch oversized mattress below you (most but not all oversized pads are 5 inches thick). Oversized pads generally are about 48 x 60 inches (20 square feet or more), with outliers like Mad Rock’s Triple Pad extending a full 72 inches.
You might be thinking, “Why would I even consider a regular or full pad when I could have an oversized pad?” Oversized pads are expensive and heavy, often pushing 20 pounds. For simple lowball bouldering and circuits, they’re more hassle than they’re worth. Furthermore, oversized pads take up space. More than anything else, the size of your car might determine the pad you purchase. A regular sedan will probably max out with two full pads, and that’s with no passengers in the backseat. Some of the larger pads (the Black Diamond Mondo, for example) might not even fit. If price, space, size, and weight don’t matter, sure, pad your problem like you’re in the gym. But most consumers will want to weigh the pros and cons of the various pad sizes.
We use the term “supplemental” as a catchall category for pads that are not designed for standalone use. These pads generally have small footprints and are 3 inches or less in thickness. For example, the Organic Briefcase Pad measures 24 x 36 x 3 inches, while the Asana Pro Spotter is larger at 44 x 74 inches but is only 0.75 inches thick. Supplemental pads often are used for sit starts, doubled over to level out a landing zone, or unfolded to cover cracks between multiple pads. We also like these pads for keeping feet clean and dry when bouldering in the mud or snow. Though not to be used alone, supplemental pads can be invaluable when paired with larger pads.
When it comes to padding, there are two main elements at play: the types of foam used and the way in which they’re layered. Starting with types, foam can be broken down into two categories: open- and closed-cell. As the name states, each “cell” of closed-cell foam is sealed off to the air, making it rigid, firm, and unable to compress much under impact. Open-cell foam, on the other hand, is soft and springy, with cells that allow air to enter and exit. In the absence of pressure, open-cell foam fills with air. When force is applied, these cells release air and provide cushion.
While most crash pads are made with a combination of open- and closed-cell foam, there are a few outliers, including the Flashed Ronin (Flashed Air Technology) and Mad Rock R3 (recycled EVA foam baffles). The Ronin takes open-cell foam to the next level, with a series of “cells” that each contain a small core of air-permeable foam (essentially, a cell within a cell). Because of the membrane around them, this foam takes longer to inflate than the typical variety. In the same way, it takes more time to deflate, allowing for a great deal of cushion. The R3’s baffles, on the other hand, are filled with recycled and shredded closed-cell foam. This pad applies the science of open-cell foam to create a cushioned closed-cell foam—pockets of air in between the small pieces allow the firm foam to provide soft and springy ground protection. And lastly, Organic pads incorporate a continuous layer of durable, comfortable memory foam for premium protection.
When you fall onto the pad, you’re hoping for two things: to not bottom out (feel the ground), and to have a cushioned catch. Most crash pads are able to pull this off by combining layers of open- and closed-cell foam. Ideally, the top layer of firm foam (closed-cell) takes the force and spreads it out onto the center layer of softer foam (open-cell), which lets out air to provide cushioning. In short, closed-cell foam dissipates the force and open-cell foam absorbs it. Most pads also have another layer of closed-cell foam on the base to further prevent bottoming out and to protect the open-cell foam from moisture and rough ground (closed-cell foam does not absorb water).
All of the standard pads on this list are between 3.5 to 5 inches thick. For the most part, the thicker the pad, the bigger the barrier it provides between you and the ground. Pads like the 3.5-inch Black Diamond Drop Zone would not be confidence-inspiring (or safe) under a highball problem, whereas you’ll love seeing the 5-inch Mondo waiting for your fall. As a general rule, the bigger the falls you plan to take, the thicker the pad you should purchase. Keep in mind that pads can be stacked on top of each other for even more protection.
Bouldering pads are designed to fold into a more compact shape for easier transport. While this packability is absolutely essential, it also creates a weak link in the foam. Manufacturers have played with all manner of designs in order to address this issue, and each has its pros and cons. Below we break down the four main types of folds: hinge, angled hinge, hybrid hinge, and taco.
A hinge is the most common type of fold on a crash pad. A hinged pad is made up of two completely separate compartments of layered foam connected with a nylon cover, forming a single crease of fabric at the folding point. The benefit of a hinge closure is that no foam is being compressed time and time again in the fold. This preserves the longevity of the pad and allows you to store it folded shut without worrying about weakening foam along the crease. Furthermore, this design allows the pad to fold completely shut, making it one of the most compact of the four systems.
The downside, however, of a hinged pad is that a “gutter” can form between the two pieces of foam, especially on uneven terrain. Rolled ankles are probably the most common bouldering injury and gutters often are the culprits. Some hinged pads, like Mad Rock’s pads and the Black Diamond Mondo, are designed with Velcro straps on the bottom to pull this gap together—a good, but not perfect, solution. If your landing zones are rugged, we’d recommend against a simple hinge pad. But for flat ground, this design does the trick. Your chance of hitting the gutter are slim, and in this environment, the benefits outweigh the drawbacks.
Metolius is the only company that makes their pads with an angled hinge, but we think they’ve got a good thing going. It resembles a standard hinge with two pieces of foam, but both pieces are cut at angles along one side. This means that when the pad folds out, the top piece of foam extends over the bottom, while the bottom extends under the top. Metolius places Velcro patches on these hinges so that the pad can be sealed flat. This is a smart solution to the hinge problem—again, not perfect (especially on uneven ground)—but close. Metolius pads are still compact when closed and can be stored folded without shortening the foam’s lifespan.
Pads with a hybrid hinge take the design of a hinged pad and add a thin, continuous layer of foam over the entire top. While 3-4 inches of the pad still fold separately, 1 inch of foam covers the hinge’s gap. These pads strike a nice middle ground: they don’t close quite as compact as simple hinge pads, but do so better than taco-style pads. They eliminate the gap of hinge pads, yet not as completely as taco pads. But with foam that is routinely folded, durability becomes an issue (it is best to store these pads open). Strategically, Organic uses memory foam on their pads—the same material we know and love from pillows and mattress toppers—as the continuous top sheet. Memory foam has the ability to compress without losing loft and we think it’s a brilliant material for a hybrid-hinged pad.
A taco-style pad is made with continuous open- and closed-cell foam that folds in half for transport. As you would expect, taking 4 to 5 inches of foam and folding it is not an easy task, and these pads often require a full body effort to clasp the buckles. The significant benefit of taco pads is that they do not have a gutter, providing one continuous, safe surface to protect falls. If you boulder consistently in areas with jagged landing zones, a taco pad is especially handy for draping over sharp rocks and mitigating gaps. Plus, because taco pads inherently have a space between the two sides when folded (picture a real taco), they are able to carry a daypack inside better than most.
But these advantages come with a list of setbacks. Most taco-style pads do not lay flat when opened—they might need to be flipped upside down or given a few minutes for the compressed foam to expand. Second, they’re usually made of a softer variety of foam than hinge-style pads and are less than confidence inspiring when falling from high. Furthermore, the area of foam that is compressed in the fold will eventually lose its loft, putting the lifespan of a taco pad in question (these pads also should be stored open whenever possible). And lastly, because of the nature of the cumbersome fold, taco-style pads carry slightly off-kilter on your back. Our favorite taco-style pad is the Flashed Ronin.
Each pad in this round-up has a slightly different design that allows it to stay folded and closed for transport. The most common closure is comprised of a series of buckles along the side (and sometimes the bottom and top too), which you’ll find on pads like the Organic Big Four and Black Diamond Mondo. Keep in mind that some buckles are easier to use than others. Asana’s cam straps, for example, are super durable but not as convenient as the hooking buckles on the Mondo. Buckle closures are easy to secure for transport but do not provide a particularly safe compartment to carry smaller items. Some of these pads, like Mad Rock’s Mad Pad, have a strip of Velcro at the base to keep items from falling out.
Another common system is the flap closure, employed on the Kinetik Newton, Backcountry/Metolius Party Pit, and others. These flaps most often cover the bottom and side of the closed pad, and sometimes the top, and usually are secured with buckles. The benefits of a flap closure are that items can ride inside the closed pad without the threat of falling out, and the flap can be used to piggyback a second pad. Oftentimes, it also folds out to become a doormat for wiping feet or wraps all the way around the pad to protect the suspension system from the ground, allowing you to drag the pad to keep it under the climber without the straps getting caught on rocks and roots. Because of all of these benefits, flap closures are our preferred closure design.
The final closure system to cover is a zipper, and Petzl’s innovative Alto is the only pad on the list above with this unique design. The benefits of the zipper closure are clear: it creates an ideal carrying compartment for loose and small gear with no threat of items falling out. Moreover, the flap unzips and flips around the pad to protect the suspension system from the ground and create a smooth surface that doesn’t grab on rocks when dragged (similar to, but more effective than, the design of a simple flap closure). This allows the Alto to be used upside down without the suspension system getting in the way if you fall.
Durability is the main downside of a zipper closure. Zippers are a common point of failure, and we’ve personally used an old Petzl pad on which the fabric had separated from the zipper, rendering it almost impossible to carry. It can be a bear to close as well, but once shut, the zipper compresses a taco pad better than any other closure system.
A suspension system might not be the first feature you think about when buying a crash pad—it’s made to lay on the ground and protect your fall, after all. That said, these pads are large and can weigh up to 24 pounds. With gear and water packed inside, you might be looking at a very unruly, 30-pound pack. Even if you’re just walking 5 minutes to the boulder field, that’s a fairly significant load.
For this reason, it’s important to evaluate a pad’s shoulder straps and hipbelt before purchasing. The bigger the pad, the more support you’ll want. Additionally, some allow you to adjust the height of the shoulder straps to get a snug fit, while others are fixed. On the extreme end, Organic partnered with Mystery Ranch Backpacks to make a crash pad that carries comfortably enough to take deep into alpine bouldering zones.
Once you’ve carried your pad into the boulders, it’s likely you’ll still be moving it short distances under climbers or between problems. Here, pads come with varying degrees of convenience. Some have side shoulder straps, while other have a carry handle at the fold for easy one-handed pickup. Grab handles on the sides or corners also are useful for dragging the pad. We think the Black Diamond Mondo is especially well-made for transport, with large over-the-shoulder handles that pack away and four grab handles near the corners.
The majority of crash pads weigh between 10 and 20 pounds, depending on size, foam thickness, and features. In general, the weight of a crash pad will not be one the most important specs when deciding on which model to purchase. If your climbing style demands an oversized pad, you’ll be content carrying the hefty 20-pound load for the tradeoff in safety. If, however, weight is a major consideration for you, a pad like the Black Diamond Drop Zone is impressively light for its size at 9 pounds 8 ounces, but does compromise some with a thinner 3.5-inch construction.
When you have to carry layers, water, rock climbing shoes, and chalk in addition to the huge pad on your back, organization is worth thinking about. Most pads make it possible to stuff miscellaneous items between the fold, with taco pads being the roomiest and triple fold pads the most difficult to pack. You’ll find too that worn in or softer pads accommodate gear better than new and stiff pads. Of course, pads with flaps, zippers, or Velcro on the bottom or sides provide the most secure transport for all your goods. The Petzl Alto even zips closed, so you can throw items of any reasonable size into the pad without worrying about them falling out.
Some pads are more fully featured than others in this regard. Common extras include daisy chains or other lash points to hang your gear, water bottle holders (Mad Rock Duo), or a pocket for keys (Metolius Recon). We find that some of these features lend convenience while others are simply overkill. As with most things, it’s a tradeoff. We love the extra carry flap of the Mad Rock Duo for the approach, for example, but once at the boulders the flaps are unruly and cumbersome.
Crash pads are durable pieces of gear, designed to be thrown, dragged, stood on, and of course, take falls big and small. All are constructed with a cover that surrounds the foam, and most of these covers are made of nylon. In general, the higher the denier count of the nylon (a measurement of fabric thickness), the tougher it will be. Additionally, pads might feature beefed-up fabric for added protection, like the waterproof coating on Black Diamond’s pads or the reinforced corners of the Flashed Ronin. Kinetik’s Newton, marketed as an all-season pad, is one of the most durable of the bunch, with a robust 1680-denier Heavy Duty Ballistic Nylon cover.
But it’s not all about the burly cover. In fact, a pad’s foam likely will be the first thing to degrade. Over time and with extended use, foam has a tendency to grow soft and lumpy. If you have a taco or hybrid hinge pad, it’s imperative that you store it unfolded to lengthen the life of the foam. The good news is that a crash pad will let you know when it’s aging. Pads inevitably grow softer during the break-in period until they reach their optimal level of cushion, and then begin to head downhill into the “too soft” realm. When you start to feel the ground through the pad, it’s probably time to give it a second life as a dog bed or van mattress. Alternatively, Organic sells replacement foam for their pads, and Mad Rock does as well for their R3 model.
Flying with crash pads is one of the greatest cruxes of traveling as a boulderer. In general, regulation size for a checked bag is 62 linear inches (length + width + height), which dictates that your 4-inch pad be less than 24 x 36 inches. That’s too small to be of much use, so unless you’re willing to pay expensive oversized baggage fees, forget flying with your pads. One notable exception is the Flashed Ronin—its foam cells compress down and pack into a stuff sack. Additionally, Spotter makes the 4-inch thick Airline Pad, but its small surface area means it’s essentially a supplemental pad.
It’s no secret that crash pads are heavy and bulky, so buying online can pose a bit of an issue when it comes to shipping. Cost varies significantly across the board, with many retailers charging an arm and a leg to ship their pads, even domestically. We typically advise shopping through REI and Backcountry, which offer free shipping on orders over $50, although REI charges extra for oversized items, including crash pads. In addition to Backcountry, Canada-based Flashed is one of the few manufacturers on our list that ships their pads at no cost to U.S. addresses. In the end, it’s important to pay attention to shipping charges, as they can add up quickly. And this is as good a plug as any for your local gear shop: if you can try a pad out before buying and avoid shipping costs at the same time, all the better.
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