We love rock climbing shoes, and we bet you do too. The good news for climbers is that there are more styles and quality products to choose from than ever before. Time-tested classics like the La Sportiva Miura VS, impressive new models such as the Skwama, and up-and-coming brands like Unparallel all are represented on this list of the top climbing shoes of 2020. From long alpine routes to overhanging sport climbs and bouldering, we've got you covered. In addition to the men's or unisex version, we've linked to the women's-specific model when available. For more background information, see our climbing shoe comparison table and buying advice below the picks.
What we like: The climbing shoe that, quite simply, does it all.
What we don’t: The shape and fit won’t work for everyone.
It’s tough not to be wowed by La Sportiva’s legacy model, the Miura. It really speaks to La Sportiva’s quality craftsmanship that this shoe was at the top of the pack 10 years ago, and still is today. You’ve heard the expression, “If it isn’t broken, don’t fix it,” right? Consider the Miura VS the embodiment of that thought. It’s just that good. The Miura edges on a dime, climbs steep terrain as well as vertical, toes in on small pockets as well as any shoe in the business, and heel hooks like a champ. There aren’t many shoes that can boulder V10, climb 5.13 sport, and punch up hard finger cracks, but this is one of them.
The Velcro model of the Miura has become far more ubiquitous than the lace-up in recent years, and for good reason. The VS is a stiffer, more aggressive shoe, and unlike the Lace is constructed with the P3 midsole. Whereas the Miura Lace can become a floppy comfort shoe in no time, the VS will hold its aggressive shape throughout the years. That said, with a leather upper, expect the Miura to stretch a bit over time (if this is a concern, take a look at the partially synthetic Otaki below). Further, many climbers agree that the toe box puts undue pressure on the big toe. But, as the saying goes, if the shoe fits, it doesn’t get much better than the Miura VS... Read in-depth review
See the Men's La Sportiva Miura VS See the Women's La Sportiva Miura VS
Best Bouldering Shoe
What we like: A bouldering slipper that provides amazing support.
What we don’t: Some will want a softer shoe.
The Instinct VS is a relatively new shoe from Scarpa that quickly has grown in popularity. It established itself as a versatile choice for sport climbing and bouldering, but it’s also a common pick for indoor and competition climbing (most notably, 11-time American Bouldering Series champion Alex Puccio cites the Instinct VS as her favorite shoe). The rubber-shrouded toe and heel are excellent on steep rock, and the medium-stiff rand offers more edging power than we’re used to seeing in a bouldering shoe.
Made with synthetic microsuede, the Scarpa will stretch less than a leather shoe, but an elastic patch on the top of the foot gives it a close fit. The stiff feel and moderate downturn set it apart from most shoes made for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering, but a thinner 3.5mm sole adds sensitivity and flex (note that the XS Edge rubber on the men’s version is replaced with XS Grip 2 on the women’s model for an even softer, grippier shoe). Scarpa also offers the same design in a softer version with a 2mm sole (the VSR), which is ideal for lighter climbers or those who prefer a more sensitive feel. And the impressive Instinct family is rounded out by a high-performance lace model and a slipper (SR), each of which are quality, standout shoes in their own right... Read in-depth review
See the Men's Scarpa Instinct VS See the Women's Scarpa Instinct VS
Best Budget Climbing Shoe for Beginners
What we like: Great price for such quality construction and design.
What we don't: Not a high-performance shoe.
Butora might not be a household name like La Sportiva or Scarpa, but the Korean company quickly is gaining traction in the U.S. Before launching Butora in 2014, shoe designer Nam Hee Do had been in the business for over 30 years (most notably, he worked with Chris Sharma to design the Shaman). He came out of the gate swinging with an impressive attention to detail and use of top-notch materials, and their Endeavor quickly became our top pick for a beginner shoe. With its $100 price tag, we recommend it to anyone new to the sport, and even to guides or gym rats looking for a super comfortable all-day shoe.
The flat Endeavor won’t help you push into high-level climbing, but if you want a cozy rig that climbs up to 5.10 or V4, it won’t disappoint. The zig-zagging Velcro straps provide a snug, customized fit, and a unique mix of leather and synthetic in the upper offers comfort and breathability in the areas where you need them most. Further, the inner layer of the tongue is made of memory foam, and the shoe is fully lined with 100-percent-organic hemp to minimize stretch and odor. Plus, both the men's and women's Endeavor come in two versions—wide and tight—so you can tailor your fit. All in all, there’s simply no other entry-level shoe in the game with such thoughtful, quality design. And for a more comprehensive list of recommendations, check out our article on the best climbing shoes for beginners.
See the Men's Butora Endeavor See the Women's Butora Endeavor
Best Shoe for Crack Climbing
What we like: The best crack climbing shoe on the market, hands down.
What we don't: Expensive and very specific.
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance you know who Tommy Caldwell is. He climbed this little thing called the Dawn Wall in Yosemite a few years ago, which became some of the biggest climbing news ever—and this is the shoe that TC designed for the job. The TC Pro is an absolute climbing machine for vertical to less-than-vertical terrain, and specifically granite. While we often correlate a flat shoe with a beginner shoe, the TC Pro is a notable exception: the stiff make-up and sticky XS Edge rubber make it an ultra-high-performance edger and slabber. And the upper that extends over the ankles is a game-changer for protection—we actually cringe now when faced with climbing a wide crack in any other shoe.
Take note that the TC Pro is not at all an all-rounder. On anything steeper than vertical, this shoe will feel clunky and flat, akin to having bricks on your feet. Even on thin finger cracks, we’d rather be wearing a shoe like the Anasazi Pink or Otaki below. Boulderers, sport climbers, and gym climbers: this is not your shoe. And as far as fit goes, we’ve found that sizing the TC Pro comfortably does not compromise much in the way of performance. For an all-day shoe that you might take to the mountains and wear with a sock, this is great news... Read in-depth review
See the La Sportiva TC Pro
Best Shoe for Face Climbing
What we like: Our favorite shoe for technical face climbing.
What we don’t: Painful in wide cracks.
The Anasazi Lace (aka the "Pink") is sort of like living in Colorado—you know who wears this shoe because they tell you they wear the shoe, all the time. Pink fans are true devotees. This shoe excels on vertical face—trad, sport, or bouldering—with excellent edging power that comes from a unique heel and high-tensioned rand. The lace closure allows for a closer, more precise fit than any of the Velcro options above, and the synthetic Cowdura upper minimizes stretch throughout the life of the shoe.
The fit of the Pink doesn’t work for every foot, but when it does, it seems to work extremely well. In other words, you’ll probably love the Pink or hate it, and therefore we heartily recommend trying this shoe on before you buy. And everyone is bound to like the price: at $150, the Pink is one of the most affordable high-performance shoes on this list. To add to that, Five Ten’s popular Anasazi collection is available in a number of different versions: recent iterations include a Velcro model (VCS) and the Pro, a bouldering-specific version of the VCS with a rubber toe patch... Read in-depth review
See the Five Ten Anasazi Lace
Best of the Rest
What we like: Fantastic quality; comes in both narrow and wide sizes.
What we don’t: Unique toe shape might take some getting used to.
We took the tried-and-true La Sportiva Solution off of our list and replaced it with the Acro, which is Butora’s solution to… the Solution. In just a few years, these shoes quickly have proved their performance chops, gaining a devoted following amongst boulderers and sport climbers alike. If you’re a La Sportiva diehard and the Solutions fit you well, by all means stick with them. However, if you’ve struggled with their fit and are looking for something slightly more comfortable, less bulky, and super form-fitting, it might be time to try out the Acro. And it doesn’t hurt that the quality of this shoe is absolutely outstanding. Despite heavy use, our pair shows no signs of frayed stitching or delamination.
The truth is that we have few gripes about the Acro, although we don’t recommend it for less-than-vertical terrain. The shoe is almost completely covered with rubber, making it a toe- and heel-hooking machine, perfect for boulders and steep sport climbing. It also has a full-length 3D ABS midsole, which means that it retains the downturned shape over time. Climbers in general have been very impressed with the fit, too: the Acro comes in both narrow and wide options and fits a wide spectrum of foot sizes. And the most recent addition to the lineup is a "Comp" version, which is a softer variation of the original slipper... Read in-depth review
See the Wide Fit Butora Acro See the Tight Fit Butora Acro
What we like: It’s tough to argue with Chris Sharma.
What we don’t: The “Knuckle Box” and “Love Bump” are features you’ll either love or hate.
Designed in part by Chris Sharma, the Shaman is best suited to the kind of climbing Sharma enjoys most: steep, endurance limestone sport routes. They perform incredibly well on this terrain, dominating small pockets, toeing in on positive crimps, toe hooking on tufa-like features, and heeling on small edges. The Trax rubber is not our favorite, but it is super sticky and performs well once you get used to it. Meanwhile, the synthetic upper maintains a tight fit over time, and the Velcro straps are thin enough to give ample room for toe rubber.
All in all, the Shaman is a really good shoe at a very competitive price. That said, Evolv’s unique “Knuckle Box” and “Love Bump” technologies certainly offer a unique experience. The Knuckle Box creates space on top of the foot, making room for toes to sit comfortably, even when curled. The Love Bump, meanwhile, is a physical bump that sits under the ball of the foot, filling the dead space under the toes and pushing them toward the knuckle box. The intention is to create a comfortable space for a downturned foot, and if the fit is right, it accomplishes this goal. But if the fit is not right, it’s really wrong. We definitely recommend trying on the Shaman before buying or choosing an online retailer with a good return policy... Read in-depth review
See the Evolv Shaman See the Women's Evolv Shakra
What we like: The No-Edge technology is, as the name implies, genius.
What we don’t: About as expensive as climbing shoes get.
The La Sportiva Genius is a high-performance climbing shoe, perhaps best known for its role in popularizing No-Edge technology. It’s a highly aggressive model that features a toe box rounded around the natural shape of the toes, rather than the standard beveled edge we’re used to seeing. The result? It can conform to a large surface area better than shoes with edges, resulting in more sensitivity, stickiness, and security on rock. No-Edge technology has been embraced by many, and now is available on a few more Sportiva models, including the men’s and women’s Futura and the Maverink slipper.
The Genius received rave reviews—including from us—upon its release, but now that the fanfare has settled, it's uncertain as to whether No-Edge technology truly is a game-changer. On the right terrain (think overhung with large footholds, or especially slabby), it allows you to have the messiest of footwork and still stick to the wall. But for vertical face climbing with small edges, you’ll be left with very little to stand on. Overall, the tradeoffs are similar to that of many shoes: you get high performance on one kind of rock, but not on another. Furthermore, when it comes time for a new sole, you’ll have to send your shoes to one of just a few specialized resolers to get the job done... Read in-depth review
See the La Sportiva Genius
What we like: A durable, comfortable slipper made in the U.S.A.
What we don’t: An unlined slipper isn’t for everyone.
If you haven’t yet heard of Unparallel, here’s your introduction. After Five Ten was bought out by Adidas in 2011, their production was moved overseas, leaving their SoCal factories and many former employees idle. Before long, Unparallel was born, taking over Five Ten’s abandoned spaces with a resolve to carry the U.S.-made torch. Now, this grassroots company makes a full line-up of climbing, mountain biking, and commuter shoes, with a dedication to high-quality materials and construction.
Unparallel’s Up Mocc is a classic, unlined leather slipper, great for all-day comfort on everything from long trad climbs to boulder problems. It differs from the popular Five Ten Moccasym in a few ways: for one, it’s cheaper at $110 (compared to the Moccasym at $125). Second, the Up Mocc has a rubber toe patch, which gives the shoe more durability, protection, and performance in cracks. Last, it’s simply a better-made shoe. In the past few years, the quality of the Five Ten Moccasym has diminished—most notably, many have experienced issues with the leather tearing—leaving many former devotees on the lookout for a replacement. And if slippers aren’t your jam (let’s be honest, they’re not for everyone), we recommend taking a look at Unparallel’s complete collection of bouldering, sport, and trad climbing shoes.
See the Unparallel Up Mocc
What we like: Downturn plus stiffness allows for great edging on vertical face.
What we don’t: The wide toe box is good for some, but sloppy for others.
The Otaki is a relatively recent innovation from La Sportiva, along with its sister shoe, the lace-up Kataki. Built on the same last as the Skwama below and with the same P3 technology and S-Heel design, you’d think the Otaki was a bouldering shoe. And it can be—but it’s also so much more. We’ve worn this shoe both on vertical sport climbs and hard finger cracks and have been super impressed with its performance in both environments. In short, you get both the edging capabilities of the Miura VS and the crack-climbing versatility of the Katana Lace. That’s one impressive recipe.
The Otaki (and Kataki) is often touted as the successor to the Katana Lace, but a few major features set it apart. For starters, the Otaki is constructed with a synthetic lining around the toe, reducing the pesky stretch that occurs in the toe box of the Katana. Additionally, the Otaki has a more aggressive downturn (PD 75 vs. the Katana’s PD 55 last), a Velcro closure, and S-Heel technology that make it a superb crossover shoe between technical face climbing and steep bouldering. And wide-footed climbers rejoice: the Otaki is just as comfortable as the Katana. If you’ve struggled to fit into the Miura VS, the Otaki could be a viable solution.
See the Men's La Sportiva Otaki See the Women's La Sportiva Otaki
What we like: Best toe hooker in the business; very comfortable.
What we don’t: Becomes floppy over time.
Similar to the Scarpa Instinct VS above and the La Sportiva Skwama below, you’re likely to see the Five Ten Hiangle on the foot of many a pro boulderer or sport climber. With a huge pad of sticky toe rubber, an aggressive downturned shape with lots of sensitivity, and a Velcro strap to keep the shoe from sliding off on heel hooks, this shoe screams steep climbing. As we mentioned above, Five Ten sizing can be a little strange, but for the right foot, it doesn’t get much better than the Hiangle.
This shoe is very similar to the Team 5.10, but with a premium leather upper instead of synthetic. Do the math, and with the leather you get more stretch, a closer fit, and more comfort. But such a tightly sized leather shoe does mean that you’ll experience more of a loss of performance over time than you would with a synthetic upper like that of the Acro or Instinct VS above. If you’re on a budget, this is important to keep in mind—although it doesn’t hurt that the Hiangle’s price recently dropped from $165 to $150. Finally, take care when easing into wearing such a soft shoe: your feet will have to work harder to support themselves than they would in a stiffer rig.
See the Men's Five Ten Hiangle See the Women's Five Ten Hiangle
What we like: Like the Shaman, but with laces and a better heel.
What we don’t: Still not great for toe hooking.
Evolv has been a bit of a dark horse in the climbing world—their shoes often are thought of as being lower-quality than premium Italian brands like Scarpa and La Sportiva—but we’ve been super impressed by many of their recent additions to the market. The Oracle is case in point. Combining the toe box technology of the Shaman (described above) with the high performance heel of Evolv’s popular Agro, the Oracle quickly is proving itself as a stellar steep climbing shoe with an exceptional fit.
While the lace-up system lends itself to a snugger fit than a Velcro shoe, some boulderers will be put off by the lack of rubber on the toe box. In addition, the Love Bump and Knuckle Box borrowed from the Shaman detract from the Oracle’s ability to toe hook. But we love the heel tensioner: a system, similar to the Anasazi above, that locks the foot in place like a slipper and pulls power to the toe of the foot. If you love the Shaman but have wished for a closer fit and a better heel, it’s worth checking out the Oracle.
See the Evolv Oracle
What we like: Comfortable for such an aggressive shoe.
What we don’t: Too soft to be a great edger.
One of La Sportiva’s newer innovations, the Skwama is a performance climbing slipper, comparable to the Acro and Genius above in terms of its highly aggressive build. However, with a soft midsole and supple Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber—one of the only Sportiva shoes to use this blend on the men’s version—the Skwama is a remarkably soft shoe. The benefits to this design come on steep terrain: it provides incredible sensitivity and precision for heel and toe hooks, and allows you to pull holds toward you with your feet better than most.
The most glaring downside of this soft construction is the lack of support underfoot. This makes the Skwama a poor choice for long days on the rock—even long single pitches at the crag—and does not inspire confidence on vertical edges. Those who are used to a stiffer shoe will find that their feet grow noticeably sore in the Skwama. But for steep sport climbing and bouldering, it’s quickly become a go-to option for many climbers, and notably comes in both men’s and women’s versions. Further, the Skwama is wider than most aggressive shoes, giving it that rare combination of comfort and performance... Read in-depth review
See the Men's La Sportive Skwama See the Women's La Sportiva Skwama
What we like: Premium craftsmanship.
What we don’t: Expensive and doesn’t toe hook as well as comparable Five Ten and La Sportiva shoes.
The Boostic is one of Scarpa’s premier climbing shoes, built similarly to the Evolv Shaman above but with a more acute edging platform and slightly less aggressive toe. Created by the visionary designer Hans Mariacher, the closure system is superb: complimentary flaps of leather connect by thin mesh and tighten down with two opposing Velcro straps. For being such an aggressive shoe, the Boostic is extremely comfortable and easy to put on.
There are, however, a few problems with this shoe. The Velcro straps are a bit long, and when tightened down all the way, can end up catching on holds and gym carpeting. Scarpa also uses a different kind of rubber on top of the toe, which makes for less secure toe hooking than on similar models like the Hiangle above. The Boostic’s greatest strengths are toeing in on small, positive crimps on dramatic overhangs and sticking small pockets. If you want a shoe for both indoor and outdoor sport climbing, this is a great choice—especially if climbing on limestone or pocketed conglomerate rock.
See the Scarpa Boostic
What we like: Extremely versatile and comfortable.
What we don’t: Has a tendency to stretch over time.
The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one of the most popular and versatile outdoor climbing shoes, and we’d be remiss not to include it here. What stands out most about the Katana is its ability to do almost everything well—crack climbing, smearing, technical face, slab climbing, you name it. Simply put, if you’re tackling terrain that’s vertical to less-than-vertical (boulderers, look elsewhere), the Katana Lace is one of the best tools for the job. Size it comfortably for an all-day shoe with much more precision than a model like the TC Pro; worn tightly, its edging prowess is on par with the likes of the Miura VS and Anasazi above.
Our biggest gripe with the Katana Lace is its tendency to stretch—out of the box, the fit is great, but the toe box can become rather unshapely once worn in. Further, we’ve found that the overall build grows floppy and soft over time, which is not ideal for technical edging. The Kataki (often touted as the successor to the Katana) remedies these issues with a stiffer build and partial synthetic toe box that mitigates stretch—plus it comes in at $10 less. But all things considered, the Katana is still our go-to shoe for technical crack climbing and all-day missions when versatility and comfort are paramount.
See the La Sportiva Katana Lace
What we like: A time-tested classic made with 95-percent-recycled materials.
What we don’t: At the end of the day, it's not very performance-oriented.
The Mythos is one of the most iconic shoes on the market. And for new climbers venturing outside, this is an incredibly comfortable and durable choice. It has a flat last and leather upper that allow it to be worn all day, and the quality Eco rubber on the sole means you get top-notch performance too. For beginning climbers and intermediates alike, it’s a great choice.
While the Mythos is great for beginner climbers or those looking for all-day comfort, it is not an incredibly versatile shoe. It’s not made for cranking through long overhanging sport climbs, nor for heel- and toe-hooking your way through roofs. Even among the beginner shoes on the market, it isn’t the best option for smearing or edging. Heck, we don’t even recommend the Mythos for gym climbing—it’s overkill and expensive for what you need. But it’s certainly among the most durable and best-fitting of the bunch, making it a nice option for beginning trad climbers. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that the Mythos Eco is now made using 95-percent-recycled materials from the Sportiva cutting-room floor.
See the Men's La Sportiva Mythos See the Women's La Sportiva Mythos Eco
What we like: Like the TC Pro, but more durable and streamlined.
What we don’t: It’s still too soon to tell how great this shoe will be.
The Maestro Mid is Scarpa’s answer to La Sportiva’s wildly popular TC Pro: a mid-height, trad climbing shoe that’s been without rival for years. In some ways, Scarpa has made a better shoe and resolved our main gripes with the TC Pro. The upper of the Maestro Mid features continuous leather (unlike the small strips of leather on the TC Pro that often come unhinged), a padded and well-anchored tongue, and a design that covers the laces and keeps them from being chewed up by cracks. Furthermore, it is made in both a men’s and women’s model, which is great news for those with low-volume feet who could not get the TC Pro to fit.
Despite these upsides, the Maestro Mid falls short in a few significant ways. First, it’s a softer shoe than the TC Pro, meaning less stability on edges or support during long days on the rock. And perhaps of even greater concern is the high-volume toe box of the Maestro. If you thought the TC Pro was bulky and wished it would fit into finger cracks better, you ain’t seen nothing yet. These nitpicks aside, the Maestro Mid still is a solid effort by Scarpa and a well-made shoe overall... Read in-depth review
See the Men's Scarpa Maestro Mid See the Women's Scarpa Maestro Mid
Closure: Velcro (lace available)
What we like: Checks off a lot of boxes for beginner climbers.
What we don’t: Too narrow for some; not a high-performance shoe.
Black Diamond’s Momentum is purpose-built for new climbers looking for a comfortable shoe that doesn’t break the bank. In fact, at $95, it’s one of just a small number of models available for under $100 (along with the Butora Endeavor above, which squeezes in at $99.90). With the Momentum, you get a unique stretchy knit upper for ventilation and all-day comfort, the choice of lace or Velcro closure (which also comes in a vegan version), and high-quality Neo Fuse rubber underfoot. All in all, it’s a solid choice for beginning climbers or those looking for a gym workhorse. Keep in mind, however, that you get what you pay for here: the poorly designed flaps under the Velcro closure have a tendency to bunch up, the knit upper gives up a lot in the way of durability and fit, and the toe box is prohibitively narrow for many.
If you’re in the market for something more technical, don’t let the Momentum dissuade you from taking a look at Black Diamond’s more performance-oriented offerings. In their few short years of making shoes, the company has developed a model for everything, from the trad-climbing Aspect and all-around Focus to the ultra-soft Shadow. We’ve been impressed with the premium nature of these shoes, which puts them on par with brands like Scarpa and La Sportiva. Plus, they’re all constructed with Butora’s Neo Fuse on the sole, an impressively sticky and durable rubber. All that said, our one major gripe (and why the Momentum is our only BD offering for now) are the high price points, which give us little reason to switch over from our beloved Italian-made models... Read in-depth review
See the Men's Black Diamond Momentum See the Women's Black Diamond Momentum
What we like: What a surprise: an affordable aggressive shoe.
What we don’t: Extremely difficult to get on and off.
Mad Rock often gets a bad rap among climbers, but for steep bouldering and sport climbing, the redesigned Shark 2.0 is surprisingly good. In a world where most aggressive climbing shoes run close to $200, the Shark stands out as an option that’s easy on your wallet without sacrificing a ton in the way of performance. It boasts Mad Rock’s Arch Flex system, a design that is stiff around the sides and soft in the center, allowing for both effective smearing and edging. However, your feet better already be pretty strong to survive the lack of arch support. That said, people rave about the snug fit of the Sharks and report that it doesn’t change much throughout use.
As far as the upper of the Shark 2.0 is concerned, it’s composed almost exclusively of 2.2mm R2 rand rubber, resulting in a toe-hooking and scumming machine. The form-fitting heel cup and sticky rubber textured heel cap make for an excellent heel-hooking shoe as well. On the downside, this mostly rubber upper is known to stifle feet. And Mad Rock’s Science Friction rubber never was, and still isn’t, anything to write home about: it’s hard and clunky, and has a slippery feel that does not inspire confidence. But priced at $119—and often found on sale—this is a solid choice for those who want an aggressive shoe for the gym.
See the Mad Rock Shark 2.0
|Climbing Shoe||Price||Downturn||Upper||Rubber||Best Uses|
|La Sportiva Miura VS||$185||Aggressive||Leather||Vibram XS Edge/Grip 2||Sport, bouldering, trad|
|Scarpa Instinct VS||$185||Moderate||Synthetic||Vibram XS Edge/Grip 2||Bouldering, gym, sport|
|Butora Endeavor||$100||Flat||Leather/synthetic||Neo Fuse||Beginner, gym|
|La Sportiva TC Pro||$190||Flat||Leather||Vibram XS Edge||Trad|
|Five Ten Anasazi Lace||$150||Moderate||Synthetic||Stealth C4||Trad, sport|
|Butora Acro||$160||Aggressive||Leather/synthetic||Neo Fuse||Bouldering, gym, sport|
|Evolv Shaman||$160||Aggressive||Synthetic||Trax SAS||Sport, bouldering, gym|
|La Sportiva Genius||$195||Aggressive||Leather/synthetic||Vibram XS Grip 2||Sport, gym, bouldering|
|Unparallel Up Mocc||$110||Flat||Leather||Unparallel RH||Trad, gym, sport|
|La Sportiva Otaki||$180||Moderate||Leather/synthetic||Vibram XS Edge/Grip 2||Sport, trad, bouldering|
|Five Ten Hiangle||$150||Aggressive||Leather||Stealth C4||Bouldering, gym, sport|
|Evolv Oracle||$180||Aggressive||Synthetic||Trax SAS||Sport, bouldering, gym|
|La Sportiva Skwama||$170||Aggressive||Leather/synthetic||Vibram XS Grip 2||Bouldering, sport, gym|
|Scarpa Boostic||$190||Aggressive||Synthetic||Vibram XS Edge||Bouldering, sport, gym|
|La Sportiva Katana Lace||$195||Moderate||Leather||Vibram XS Edge||Sport, gym|
|La Sportiva Mythos Eco||$155||Flat||Leather||Vibram XS Edge||Trad|
|Scarpa Maestro Mid||$199||Flat||Leather||Vibram XS Edge||Trad|
|BD Momentum||$95||Flat||Synthetic||Neo Fuse||Beginner, gym|
|Mad Rock Shark 2.0||$119||Aggressive||Synthetic||Science Friction 3.0||Gym, bouldering, sport|
- Types of Climbing Shoes: Trad, Sport, Bouldering, Gym
- Downturn: Flat, Moderate, or Aggressive
- Soft vs. Stiff
- Closure: Laces, Velcro, or Slipper
- Upper: Leather vs. Synthetic
- Fit and Sizing
- Men’s and Women’s Versions
- Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing
There are as many styles of climbing shoes as there are rocks, and for best performance, these two factors should be matched appropriately. Sport climbing, bouldering, trad climbing tend to be as similar as apples, oranges, and bananas—which is to say, rather dissimilar. A shoe designed for overhanging boulders would be painful and less-than-functional in a hand crack. In the same vein, a stiff, flat shoe perfect for slab climbing would be clunky and useless when trying to toe hook on steep terrain. That said, whether you’re on a boulder, placing gear, or clipping bolts, the rock will dictate your style of shoe more than the discipline. Granite climbs differently than sandstone, which climbs differently than limestone, and quartzite, and basalt, and so on and so forth. Obviously, there’s no perfect categorization, and a good understanding of the terrain helps to round out these delineations.
Trad climbing typically takes place on slabby to just-vertical terrain, and often involves a great deal of jamming in cracks. For this, flat climbing shoes—also thought of as all-around shoes or non-aggressive shoes—are the top-performing models. These shoes are often more comfortable than their more aggressive counterparts, but comfort need not compromise performance. Certain flat shoes offer the best performance for slabs, techy face climbing, and cracks (the La Sportiva TC Pro, for example). Look for very slight or no downturn at all, a stiff midsole, relaxed fit, minimal heel/toe rubber, solid ankle protection, and most often, laces. That said, the more technical and steep the trad route (think 5.12 finger cracks or thin 5.11 edging on Index granite), the more you might prefer a shoe with a moderate or aggressive downturn. For vertical faces and thin finger cracks, a model like the Five Ten Anasazi Pink or the La Sportiva Otaki will perform far better than the clunky TC Pro.
For sport climbing on vertical to slightly less-than-vertical terrain—imagine Smith Rock or the New River Gorge—you can get away with a relatively stiff shoe with a moderate downturn. These models absolutely shine on face climbs where precision edging is paramount. They’re characterized by a solid edging platform, tight heel cup with a slingshot-style rand, stiff midsole, and laces or a Velcro closure. Our favorites include the La Sportiva Miura VS and Five Ten Anasazi Lace. For steeper sport climbing (such as that found in Kalymnos, the Red, or even in the gym), we’d look to a more aggressive shoe like those described in the bouldering section below. The La Sportiva Skwama is a great example: it’s a soft slipper with Velcro closure, aggressively downturned, and sports a whole lot of rubber on the toe and heel.
Bouldering shoes—indoor and outdoor—are characterized by an aggressive downturn, generous patch of toe rubber, floppiness for sensitivity, rounded heel cups covered in rubber, and a hybrid closure (often an elastic slipper with a single Velcro strap). These shoes—the Five Ten Hiangle, for example—shine on steep terrain, when toe hooking, heel hooking, and sticking to tiny incuts on overhanging walls. They usually are sized snug and probably aren’t comfortable to wear for more than a minute or two.
If you’re a new boulderer—especially indoors—we recommend that you save your money and foot ligaments and start with a stiffer and less aggressive shoe like the La Sportiva Otaki or Black Diamond Momentum. You can graduate to something softer and more aggressive once your technique improves and your feet get stronger, but for V2 and under (even up to V4 in the gym) an entry-level shoe is more than sufficient (for more on soft vs. stiff shoes, see below).
We have used the term “downturn” many times above—it’s of the most notable features of a climbing shoe. Essentially, downturn defines the amount of curve in the sole of a shoe, from banana shaped (aggressive) to flat. The more aggressive the downturn, the more power your toes have to pull and perch on small edges, but the less your feet are able to rest in their natural position. In general, aggressive shoes perform well on steep rock, and flat shoes shine on vertical to less-than-vertical terrain. Just picture the banana shape of a shoe like the Evolv Oracle, and envision toeing in on overhanging holds with the power to pull your body towards them. Then tilt the rock back to slab, and you’ll understand that you want a flat shoe (like the La Sportiva Mythos or TC Pro) that allows you to stand on the ball of your foot.
Stiffness is another way that shoes differ from each other, but here it’s tough to make blanket statements. So much of this depends on preference. While many boulderers prefer ultra-soft shoes like the Five Ten Hiangle or the La Sportiva Skwama, others prefer stiffer models like the Butora Acro or Scarpa Instinct VS. Same goes for trad climbers—the TC Pro is wildly popular, but so are slippers like the Unparallel Up Mocc. One thing that we can say definitively is that a stiff shoe offers more support for the foot—if you’re just getting into the sport, you’ll definitely want to start with a stiff to medium-stiff shoe until your feet grow stronger. Soft shoes are far more sensitive and flexible, and your feet will have to do much of the work to support themselves.
A stiff shoe will also offer more edging power, as it provides a solid platform for your foot to stand on tiny edges. For this reason, we like a stiffer shoe for vertical face and slab. Soft shoes, on the other hand, do not provide the stability needed for precise edging, but enable you to toe in better on steep routes. Plus, you’ll be able to feel the holds more underfoot, which many climbers like. Soft shoes are also more comfortable to downsize, so you can really hone in a tight, snug fit. Finally, keep in mind that the thinner the sole, the softer the shoe will be. For example, the Scarpa Instinct VSR’s 2mm sole helps to make it a much softer shoe than its sibling, the Instinct VS (with 3.5mm sole).
Closure systems should not be overlooked, and in fact they can be a deciding factor in what shoe is the best match for you. There are not hard-and-fast rules about which is better than the other, and each has their strengths and weaknesses for various forms of climbing. The three main closures are laces, Velcro, and slipper, and more and more we’re seeing Velcro and slippers combined for a best-of-both-worlds closure.
Laces are a favorite of trad climbers who put their shoes on and keep them on. They’re much better suited in cracks than Velcro, which tends to come undone after repetitive jamming. Laces also allow you to dial in an incredibly precise fit. Whether your feet are wide or narrow, you get more versatility with a lace shoe like the La Sportiva Genius than any other kind. That said, laces can be a pain in the butt if you are putting on and taking off your shoes all the time, and if you’re crack climbing, they will wear out over time.
Many climbers prefer Velcro closures because they are easy to put on and take off. They’re great for indoor climbing, bouldering, and sport climbing, when you’re often relieving your feet in between problems or pitches. A Velcro closure, however, can get in the way of toe hooking—for steep bouldering, we’d rather have a large patch of rubber on top of our toe than a bulky strap. Furthermore, Velcro can easily come undone during repetitive jamming in cracks. Velcro shoes can also be somewhat limiting in how well they fit and tend to fail quicker than laces.
Slippers provide one of the most comfortable, convenient types of closure, and they generally correlate with soft shoes that excel on friction slabs and in cracks (such as the Unparallel Up Mocc). But slippers can stretch over time, and when that happens, there's no way to tighten them up. Interestingly, the work-around to this problem has resulted in many of the best bouldering shoes: the La Sportiva Skwama and Scarpa Instinct VS, for example. These shoes add a single Velcro strap near the ankle of the slipper, resulting in a very comfortable and secure fit and a large space on the toe for a large rubber patch. We think that slippers are a bit of a dying breed, but this combination of slipper and Velcro will only grow in popularity.
The upper is the part of the shoe that rests along the top and sides of your foot. In most climbing shoes, the upper is a leather or synthetic leather substitute, and there’s not really a rubric to determine which is better for you. Some prefer leather, and some synthetic. Both have their pros and cons, and there are multiple representatives of both types on this list. The biggest difference is that leather stretches and synthetic uppers generally don’t, and this has a variety of consequences.
Because leather stretches, it is able to conform to your foot. Over time, it takes on a glove-like shape which results in increased comfort. Comparing the La Sportiva Miura VS to the Anasazi Pink, for example, the Miura will stretch up to a whole size, while the Five Ten will barely stretch at all. This means one of two things: one, if you want the Miura to have the same functionality as the Pink a year after the fact, you have to start with a smaller size. Or two, if you want the Pink to be as comfortable as the Miura in a year, you have to start with a bigger size. Whether you prefer your shoe to become more comfortable over time or you want it to retain its original dimensions should play a big role in choosing the shoe you buy. And take note that many modern leather shoes incorporate a synthetic liner in high-stretch areas—we think this is a best-of-both-worlds solution.
Climbing shoe rubber is an esoteric subject. Should you buy Vibram XS Edge or XS Grip? Stealth HF or Stealth C4? What about proprietary blends like Trax and Science Friction? The rubber is what will actually stick to the rock, so this is incredibly important, right? Yes, but maybe not as important as you think. All rubbers try to find some balance on the sticky-durable continuum. Some, like Science Friction, go hard to the sticky side, while others, like Sportiva’s proprietary FriXion RS, gravitate to the more durable side. Either way can make sense depending on your priorities. In fact, we know many a male climber who wears the women’s Miura VS, as it’s made with a stickier rubber (XS Grip 2) than the men’s version (made with XS Edge). Just understand that there is a tradeoff: the grippier your rubber, the shorter it will last. The longer it lasts, the less sticky it will be.
But because you asked (you did, right?), we do have our preferred brands and models of rubber. A quick check of the comparison table above is a dead giveaway: Vibram and Stealth are our clear favorites. We especially like the consistent performance of the XS Edge and XS Grip from Vibram, along with Five Ten’s Stealth C4. Butora’s Neo Fuse is quickly earning our allegiance as well. And, of course, when you bust through the rubber, it doesn’t mean you have to retire your shoe. Resolers aren't difficult to find these days—Rock and Resole in Boulder, CO is one of the most widely known—and most even give you the option to change the kind of rubber that’s on your shoe.
We could give you a bunch of rules about how to size your shoe, but in the end, sizing is so specific, so unique, and so particular to each shoe and each foot. Some shoes will be too wide or too narrow for your feet. Some will stretch a full size, while others won’t at all. Some are sized on track with street shoes (Black Diamond’s lineup, for example), while others will have you dropping down a handful of sizes. As a result, your best bet is to: a) do some research on what other people have to say about the shoe’s fit, and; b) always try the shoe on before buying. If you’re ordering online, you can roll the dice or buy a couple of pairs from a reputable retailer and return one.
That said, a few generalizations apply. First of all, you want your climbing shoes to feel tighter than your street shoes. Second, tighter does not mean cutting off circulation. If you’re swimming in your shoe, it’s probably too loose. But if putting it on takes you a minute of serious tugging only to result in a number 8 on the pain scale, they’re too tight. Be honest with yourself: how tight can you go without letting discomfort get in the way of the joy of climbing? Many people will sacrifice pain for the extra performance it brings to their climbing game, while others think that a tight shoe adds very little performance. It all depends on the terrain, the shoe, and the climber. Third, understand that leather stretches and synthetic fabrics tend not to. Finally, it’s worth noting that most people have one foot that’s slightly bigger than the other, so try on both shoes before you make a purchase. And if your feet are egregiously different sizes, go with Evolv: you can buy the right foot shoe in one size, and the left in another.
By and large, at least in climbing shoe land, the rule is as follows: men’s shoes are for wide feet and women’s shoes are for narrow feet (Butora, on the other hand, offers their shoes in “wide” and “tight”). You can toss this “rule” out along with all other hetero-normatives, but you can also use it as a guide to help you pick out a shoe. Maybe you’re a man with a narrow foot, which means you should consider a women’s style. And some women prefer men’s shoes. The point is that you won’t care what gender your footwear is when you’re cruxing out on your project, and neither will your belayer or anyone else. As for comparing men’s and women’s sizes, use this helpful chart from La Sportiva. And keep in mind that some “unisex” models (the popular Scarpa Boostic or Five Ten Anasazi Pink, for example) aren’t made in varying widths. If your foot is wider or narrower than most, it’s likely that these shoes won’t work for you.
Although there are very few shoes made specifically for gym climbing, it really is a whole different beast than climbing outdoors. Overall, indoor walls are vertical to overhung (at our local gym, there are V0s on a 45-degree overhang and 5.10s out a huge roof, which you’d be hard pressed to find outside), the foot holds larger, and the routes stacked on top of each other (meaning it’s easier to rack up mileage than if you’re outside moving from crag to crag or boulder to boulder). In general, footwork matters less and you’ll wear out your shoe more quickly, meaning two things: the style, fit, and sole of your shoe is of less consequence (feel free to argue with us on this point, although before you do, keep reading), and you’ll accumulate quite the bill if you’re churning through $190 shoes.
If you’re a new climber or use the gym more as training for the outdoors than as the be-all and end-all, you can get away with a relatively flat, comfortable, and affordable shoe for indoor climbing. Save your money for when you head outside, where performance on projects matters more and precise footwork is imperative. All that said, if gym climbing is your jam, the purple route is your project, and you’re really pushing the grade indoors, you’ll definitely want to look for an aggressive, bouldering-specific shoe. For either scenario, check out the “Best Uses” column of our comparison table above to see which shoes we recommend for indoor climbing.
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