The Road to Hana—the 50-plus mile stretch of highway hugging Maui’s luxuriant northeastern coastline—is a full day adventure in itself. The t-shirts and bumper stickers that shout, “I survived the Road to Hana” exaggerate the danger, but with 56 one-lane bridges and over 600 curves, some sections definitely are hair-raising. Slow is the only way to go but it’s worth it; this journey winds it way through some of Hawaii’s (and the world’s) most storied scenery.
The Road to Hana, also known as the Hana Highway, begins in the town of Paia on Maui’s northern coast. From there the trip takes approximately 2–3 hours in each direction depending on traffic. The town of Hana offers little to speak of but it’s readily apparent that the road itself is the star of the show. Few miles, if any, aren’t extraordinarily beautiful.
Driving the Hana Highway
1. Start Early and Beat the Traffic
Rising early to get ahead of the crowds is essential. Almost everyone completes the trip in one day from Wailea, Kihei, and Kaʻanapali, and the bulk of cars and tour groups drive toward Hana in the late morning and back in the early afternoon. With the multitude of hairpin turns and one-lane bridges, traffic can be a drag and stopping points get crowded. If there were one day on a Maui vacation to set an alarm, grab an early cup of coffee, and hit the road, this would be it.
2. Gas Up in Paia
The town of Paia is the last place to get gas until the service station in Hana (42 miles down the road). Paia has some of the highest gas prices on Maui but it’s smart to top off your tank before starting the journey.
3. You Don’t Need 4-Wheel Drive (Even for the Backside)
It’s a myth that the Road to Hana, or the backside (the Pilani Highway), requires 4-wheel drive. The Road is narrow at points and the bridges require some maneuvering, but none of this is dependent on 4-wheel drive capability. Twice I’ve driven the entirety of the Road to Hana including the backside in small cars without 4-wheel drive. Maui rental car agreements do specify that coverage is void on dirt roads, meaning the Road to Hana is covered but dirt sections of the Pilani Highway are not.
4. Consider Staying in Hana
Although it adds an extra wrinkle, the fortunate few who stay overnight in Hana enjoy the extraordinary beauty of this remote part of the island in solitude. The rush to Hana happens en masse around midday, but on the Hana side of the island the other 20 hours or so are pure bliss. One option is scheduling the end of your Maui trip in Hana and driving to the airport directly (most flights depart from Hawaii in the late evening so time is not an issue on the last day).
5. Don’t Miss the 10 Miles South of Hana
Many publications mistakenly list the town of Hana as the end of the Road to Hana, but even for those returning the same way, it shouldn’t be the end of the journey. The 10 miles south of Hana are magnificent and relatively quick (the road opens up a bit). Just past mile marker #42 is the Kiphahulu Visitor Center with easy access to Oheo Gulch (Seven Sacred Pools) and the Pipiwai Trail, one of Maui's premier hikes. This is the ideal place to stretch your legs before making the drive back.