The Tongariro Crossing—officially renamed the “Tongariro Alpine Crossing” in 2007 to more accurately portray its difficulty—is the premier day hike in New Zealand. Located in a dual status UNESCO World Heritage area, the trail passes closely among old lava flows, steaming vents, a giant red crater, and turquoise volcanic lakes. The perfectly shaped cone of Mount Ngauruhoe, a centerpiece of the hike, famously starred as Mount Doom in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy.
On the whole, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing lives up to its reputation. There just aren't many places in the world where you can walk intimately among volcanoes of this stature (the only contender I know of would be Maui's Haleakala National Park). And although the Department of Conservation makes clear that the Crossing and the conditions in the park are not to be taken lightly, those who are reasonably fit and/or determined shouldn't have any problems completing the hike.
Mangatepopo Car Park to Soda Springs (1–1½ hours)
The hike begins in the flat grasslands in the Mangatepopo Valley surrounded by black lava flows. The darkest flows are the newest—the lava has yet to break down and the strong reflection of the sun inhibits the growth of lichens and mosses. As the trail slowly approaches the base of the volcanoes Tongariro and Ngauruhoe, Soda Springs, an oasis of sorts in the stark landscape, is a quick 15-minute side trip off the left side of the trail.
Soda Springs to the South Crater (1–1½ hours)
The steep ascent from the valley floor up to the South Crater is the most difficult section of the Tongariro Crossing. Rising from an elevation of 900 meters to 1,600 meters in a short distance, the portion of the track is challenging but well groomed with plenty of places to rest. The views from high on the the South Crater are fantastic—along with the National Park’s three volcanoes, Mount Taranaki often is visible to the west.
South Crater to Emerald Lakes (1–1½ hours)
Past the South Crater is the final short and steep incline to the Red Crater, which marks the hike's peak elevation at 1,886 meters. The bright tint of the crater and the strong sulfur smell it emits bring to life how active these volcanoes truly are. Fifteen minutes down the trail from the Red Crater are the popular Emerald Lakes, whose azure color, caused by the leaching of minerals from nearby thermal areas, stands out dramatically against the reddish hillside.
Emerald Lakes to Ketatahi Hut (1–1½ hours)
One of the highlights of the trek is walking through the vast expanse of the Central Crater ("crater" actually is a misnomer as the area is believed to be a glacial basin) with Tongariro and Ngauruhoe looming in the distance.
Ketatahi Hut to Ketatahi Car Park (1½–2 hours)
It feels like the Ketatahi Hut must be close to the finish line, but there is still a significant stretch of easy walking ahead. The trail passes down through tussock grasslands into a forested area, ending with a long flat section to the Ketatahi Car Park where transportation awaits.
Optional Side Hikes
Ngauruhoe Summit (3 hours round trip)
From the South Crater is a challenging climb to the summit of Ngauruhoe (2,287 m). The trail is not officially marked and almost all craggy scree, but enough people do the route on a daily basis that it’s relatively straightforward to follow. If you arrive at the South Crater early enough and are up for a tough scramble, the vista at the top is superb.
Tongariro Summit (2 hours round trip)
From the Red Crater a poled footpath leads to the summit of Tongariro, an easier alternative to the Ngauruhoe Summit hike with excellent views back toward Ngauruhoe.
Transportation
The Tongariro Crossing is walked in one direction starting from the Mangatepopo car park and ending at the Ketatahi car park. Limited spaces are available for individual cars (the area is considered a high risk for break-ins), but given the ending point and layout of the roads it makes the most sense to utilize one of the Tongariro Crossing’s many shuttle providers. They will drop you conveniently at the trailhead with a range of pick-up times at the end for a smooth return trip. Depending on your pace, the full track takes 5–8 hours to complete, without side hikes.
Tongariro Hiking Essentials
1. Arrive as Early as Possible
The Tongariro Crossing is world-renowned and by midmorning the trail is crowded. Avoid the masses by arranging for the earliest possible transportation to the trailhead (Discovery has you there by 6 am).
2. Prepare for a Steep Climb
The trail gains over 1,000 meters in elevation during the first half of the hike. There are ample places to stop and rest and you will notice many people doing exactly that. Pace yourself, drink plenty of water, and you shouldn’t have problems completing the hike.
3. Keep an Eye on the Weather
On a typical day it will be warm at the bottom and windy and cold at the top. Check the weather reports before you head out and be aware that the conditions change quickly. Bring a day pack with warm clothes, rain gear, and plenty of water and snacks.