The name Patagonia is embedded in the minds of many who love the outdoors, yet its specifics often remain a mystery. Upon first visiting the region in 2005 (for me Patagonia meant “somewhere well south of Buenos Aires”), I promptly hopped on a chaotic overnight bus from the capital city toward the unknown. In truth, there are many Patagonias, starting with Bariloche’s fancy chalets in the Lakes District down to the extreme south of Ushuaia, the setting off point to Antarctica and home of the southernmost permanent civilizations on earth. Between these two bookends is endless wild country as vast and unforgiving as any.
If there were one Patagonia experience most representative of them all, it would be Torres del Paine National Park on the Chilean side (many of the most scenic areas reach into both Argentina and Chile, and it’s common to cross over between the two countries many times on one extended trip). The Cordillera del Paine is the centerpiece: a towering spine of multi-colored rock formations that is a world unto itself. Guanacos roam the soft tundra of the surrounding hillsides, the glacier-fed lakes and rivers glow azure, and the mountains often are crowned by intimidating grayish cloud cover. The Torres, or Towers, are giant granite monoliths, the most recognizable of which are the South, Central, and North Towers of the Torres del Paine.
Of all the places in Patagonia, Torres del Paine is one of the most accessible and well suited for travelers. Generally, the Chilean side of Patagonia is better organized than the Argentinian side, and Torres del Paine is Chile’s crown jewel. The easiest way to travel there is to fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas, 312 kilometers south of Torres del Paine National Park, and then travel north by ground to Puerto Natales, the gateway to the park.
Once inside the park the most popular option, and a fixture on many lists of the world’s best hikes, is the Torres del Paine “W” circuit. Mimicking the shape of the letter itself, the “W” winds its way through some of the park’s most scenic stretches, excluding the long back section that gets mucky during periods of rain. The 58 km “W” takes 4–6 days, and the 93 km full loop is approximately 7–10 days; there is a well-established network of huts (refugios) and campgrounds along the route. Off the main trail, excellent side hikes get only a fraction of the trekkers, including to the base of the Torres, Valle del Frances, and along the western edge of mammoth Glacier Grey.
Of all the big-name national parks, Torres del Paine also may have the best infrastructure for those who aren’t interested in exploring the backcountry. Many of the refugios serve as cheap accommodations for day hiking or simply admiring the scenery. A few ultra luxury hotels offer impressive spreads of the Paine massif in high comfort.
However you decide to take in Torres del Paine, make sure to step out and lean into the elements to feel the driving wind and rain that make Patagonia one of the most compelling landscapes on earth.